General Tips

In the early 19th century, the gem trade developed a hardness standard called the Mohs Scale. The harder the material, the higher the rating.

 

A gem with a higher rating can scratch a stone that is lower. Diamonds are the hardest and highest at 10. Rubies and sapphires are Mohs 9. Garnets, tourmalines, quartz are 7.

Anything softer than 7 (opal, turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral, and pearls) can be scratched quite easily. Gold, silver, and platinum are only Mohs 2-1/2 to 4. Which means they are very soft and need special care when wearing, storing or cleaning.

Gold is a rare, soft, and very valuable metal. As a jewelry consumer, you have probably encountered the term "karats". 24 karats denotes 100% pure gold.

Any karat value below 24 is the amount of pure gold that occupies the gold jewelry alloy. For example, 18 karat equals 18/24ths of pure gold which is 75% gold. Likewise, 14 karat equals 14/24ths of pure gold which is 58.5% gold.

The remaining mixture of non-gold metals are not very important in determining value, but are primarily used to increase strength and vary color in gold jewelry.

In many countries, the law requires that every item of gold jewelry be clearly stamped with its karatage. This is often controlled through hallmarking, a system which originated in

London at Goldsmiths' Hall in the 14th century. US law requires hallmarking of all gold jewelry and the legal minimum gold karatage is 10k. When buying gold jewelry, always make sure that it is properly stamped with the karatage.

Also, make sure that you know the karatage and price when buying gold jewelry. Although the color may not differ much, the actual value between 10k and 18k gold differs greatly.

Silver can achieve a great polish and does not tarnish in its pure form. Most silver jewelry is silver combined with other metals (alloys). This makes it more suitable for general jewelry use. Pure silver is usually alloyed with copper to enhance its durability and prevent damage to the metal.

Typically, sterling silver consists of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 percent copper. Over time oxidation reactions will occur, especially with sulfur and oxygen, causing silver to become tarnished.

Care should be taken to prevent this tarnishing, and many commercial products are available that will easily remove tarnish buildup that silver naturally acquires.

Sterling silver is the most reflective out of all precious metals, and is scratch-resistant but not scratch-proof, so use care when cleaning and storing tp leep its beauty.

Platinum jewelry is usually in the neighborhood of 90-95% pure. It is more "solid" than gold in terms of how resistant it is to tarnishing by chlorine and other chemicals. Fortunately, platinum is very durable and does not lose its polish very easily. Cleaning patterns are the same as other metals.

There are many different types of jewelry, some of which require specific care and cleaning procedures.

Ask your jeweler about the specific stones that are in your piece. Many natural gemstones are treated or enhanced from the time they are extracted from the earth by one or more traditionally accepted jewelry industry practices.

These treatments and enhancements can affect how you should clean and care for your gemstone jewelry.

Ask your jeweler for more information on caring for treated or enhanced gemstones. However, there are some general care and cleaning rules which apply to all jewelry.

Daily Care

Don't wear your jewelry twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week. While many of us love to wear our favorite pieces day and night, the most effective way to preserve them is to limit the exposure to daily elements, the wear-and-tear of daily life.

Don't leave your jewelry on when doing home cleaning, gardening, playing sports and other types of heavy work or manual labor. Remove your jewelry before bathing or swimming.

Even the hardest gemstones can be vulnerable to breakage if they have inclusions that weaken the crystal structure. Exercise common sense: remove your jewelry during strenuous work or exercise. Diamonds are the hardest substance on earth but they can shatter in two with a single well-placed blow.

Rubies and sapphires are the toughest gems but even they can chip if hit sharply. Take particular care if you have a ring set with a gem variety with a hardness less than 7 or an included stone. Treat each piece of fine jewelry you own with respect and you will enjoy it forever.

Be wary of makeup, moisture, and chemicals that may affect your jewelry's appearance. Many personal care products can be harmful to your jewelry.

This includes soaps, lotion, make-up, perfume, shaving cream, and hairspray. These daily elements can form a dull film that covers the piece and is hard to remove. You can easily prevent this by removing them before grooming.

Ensure that you wash your hands thoroughly after applying makeup before putting the jewelry back on. When you prevent the formation of film, you'll cut down on the need for cleaning. Some stones and beads are dyed so it is best if you do not swim or bathe with jewelry on.

You can test in an inconspicuous spot by wetting a tissue, rubbing lightly, and seeing if any dye rubs off. Be careful when removing your ring to wash your hands. Do not leave your ring on the rim of a sink where it can easily slip down the drain.

Do not expose your precious gemstone pieces to salt water or harsh chemicals, such as chlorine or detergents.

These chemicals may slowly erode the finish and polish of gemstones. It's a good idea to remove jewelry before entering a chlorinated pool or hot tub or putting your hands into water with bleach.

Chlorine, especially at high temperatures, can permanently damage or discolor your jewelry, including the metals. Remove jewelry before you do any household chores. Some common household cleaners have bleach and other chemicals that may adversely affect jewelry.

Do not subject gemstone jewelry to sudden temperature changes. Excessive heat and sudden temperature changes may also fracture the gem. Heat can easily remove the natural moisture some gems need to keep their beauty.

Pearls, for instance, can dry out, crack and discolor. Opals will turn white or brown, develop tiny cracks, and might lose their play-of-color.

Light and heat can affect a colored gemstone's durability and color. Just as the sun's harmful rays can damage our skin, over time and in excess, it can also fade and weaken some gemstones, such as amethyst, kunzite, topaz, and pink conch-shell cameos.

Pearls and other delicate materials, like ivory, will bleach under extreme exposure to light. Other gems, especially amber, can darken over time when exposed to too much light. Do not wear jewelry in a tanning booth.

Examine your jewelry on a regular basis for damage. Check any gemstone settings periodically for possible damage to prongs or bezels.

If you see a loose prong, or if the setting looks out of line, immediately bring it to a professional for repair. Be certain that stones mounted in rings are not loose or rattle. The prongs of a ring can and do wear down. If the prongs wear down too much or break, you've lost the stone.

Prongs are easily "retipped" by most jewelers to keep the stone secure. Check your jewelry for scratches or other damage, and bring it to your jeweler if there is any; he or she may be able to repair it.

Take your platinum piece to a qualified jeweler for polishing if visible scratches appear. All precious metals can scratch and platinum is no exception. However, the scratch on platinum is merely a displacement of the metal and none of its volume is lost.


Always remove your sterling silver jewelry when using cleaners that contain any bleach, alcohol, polish remover, turpentine, ammonia or acetone. These can cause irreversible damage.

Cleaning

Do clean fine jewelry often to maintain its sparkle and beauty. You may read about many different ways to clean your jewelry.

These are some basic recommendations and precautions that you should follow to maintain your jewelry's beauty and to prevent permanent damage. When in doubt, ask a reputable jeweler first!

General Cleaning

After each wearing, gently wipe each piece of jewelry clean of make up and skin oils with a 100% cotton, chamois or felt cloth.

All fine jewelry can be safely cleaned by soaking for 10 minutes in warm soapy water (using a non-detergent soap). Use a soft brush on harder gems to loosen any dirt around the prongs.

Rinse with warm water and lay the jewelry out to dry on a towel or pat dry with a non-scratching cloth. Do not use toothpaste as its abrasives can damage softer gems and metals.

Polish gently with a jewelry polishing cloth if needed. Rub the cloth lightly in a lengthwise manner and not in a circular motion. Use only the special cleaning cloths and polishing cloths designed for jewelry, or 100% cotton, chamois or fine felt.

Other materials, including tissue and paper towels, should be avoided as items like these may cause scratches because of fibers present in the product. Avoid touching your clean jewelry with your fingers. Handle clean jewelry by its edges.

Commercial Cleaners

There are cleaning products available for all types of precious metals, but if your piece is set with gemstones or other components, clean those substances and care for them as you would if they were not paired with the metal.

Chemicals in some products can damage certain gems, such as pearls, even if they are considered to be mild. Even soft brushes used in applying cleansers can do damage to some gems. Read the label, and if in doubt, do not use a chemical cleaner.

Some gemstones that cannot be placed in most commercial jewelry cleaners are: pearls, lapis lazuli, malachite, amber, opals, coral, turquoise, aquamarine and jade, just to name a few! You can make your own cleaning formulas at home, but the same precautions apply to these as the commercial formulas. Use caution with the gems!

Ultrasonic Cleaners

Home ultrasonic cleaners are best used for jewelry without gemstones. The ultrasonic may also be suitable for some diamond-set jewelry; however, the intense vibrations can loosen gems.

DO NOT use the ultrasonic on porous gems such as lapis, coral, or dyed gemstones. NEVER use ultrasonic cleaners on organic materials (such as amber, bone, coral, horn, ivory, and pearls).

Gold & Platinum

Gold and platinum are cleaned in the same manner. If a little more cleaning is required than just the soap and water, try using soap and water mixed with a few drops of ammonia, or a light solution of ammonia and water.

Rinse well and dry completely. Ammonia should not be used on the same types of gemstones that should not be used with commercial cleaners. Grease can be removed from jewelry by dipping it into ordinary rubbing alcohol or vodka.

A 14 karat gold tongue ring is not recommended for smokers, as the nicotine will cause the ring to discolor rapidly and is hard to restore the color back to normal. 14 karat gold tongue rings should also be worn for special occasions, not all of the time. Moisture can cause the ring to tarnish more quickly as can sulfides from some foods.

Silver

High-End Silver jewelry is often finished with rhodium giving it the appearance of platinum and is generally regarded as tarnish resistant. If your jewelry is finished with rhodium, clean it with a jewelry cleaning cloth and polishing cloth.

Silver that has not been treated with rhodium is cleaned in much the same way, but will require more frequent polishing to maintain its luster. With brand new silver jewelry, a polishing cloth is typically sufficient.

To achieve the best results with jewelry containing gemstones, a liquid fine jewelry cleaner is recommended. Do not use silver dip as this will damage the rhodium finish and is known to remove color and polish from certain gemstones, including turquoise and pearls.

Although it may be acceptable to use silver dip on pieces that are not set with gemstones or finished with rhodium, the chemicals are extremely harsh and should be reserved for instances in which the item is completely tarnished, such as antique sterling silver items. The dip solution should not be used for extended soaking, but in a dipping manner and then rinsed and dried.

Clean your sterling silver jewelry with a mild soap and water solution, allowing the water to bead up, and then patting dry with a soft cloth.

For more stubborn dirt, use a jewelry cleaner designed for silver use. (If you do use silver cleaner, make sure you keep it away from any gems set in the silver.) The highest recommended product to use for removing tarnish from sterling silver jewelry is a silver cloth.

The best way to clean in places that a polishing cloth will not reach is very simple and you probably already have what you need in your kitchen. Take a small bowl that will hold about a half quart of water and line it with aluminum foil.

Add hot water and a tablespoon of Tide or Arm And Hammer washing powder (not liquid or with bleach) and stir. The boric acid in the washing powder causes a reaction with the aluminum foil and the tarnish will leave the silver and attach to the aluminum.

Place your jewelry in the solution for about 1 minute and rinse with clean water and air dry. If you have a build-up of dirt in hard to reach places, just put a little dish washing liquid in a bowl of water and soak over night.

This will usually loosen the dirt enough that it will release itself from the jewelry, if this does not work, use a soft tooth brush to loosen the dirt and soak it again.

Another method for removing tarnish is an aluminum foil pie pan, a box of water softener (calgon, rain drops etc.), and a salt container.

Put warm water in the pie pan along with a couple tablespoons of water softener and a couple tablespoons of salt - whisk the jewelry around for a few seconds in the solution and all tarnish is gone. Rinse well and dry.

Copper & Brass

Although not as common, jewelry may be made from copper or brass or have copper or brass components. Copper and brass are also very simple to care for. While they do tarnish more quickly than sterling silver, they can be restored to their original shine easily.

As with sterling silver, copper and brass jewelry will tarnish slower if stored in a recloseable plastic bag or jewelry case with anti-tarnish paper.

Whatever method you use, if the piece has any stones or other components, clean and care for it as you would if they were not paired with the metal.

There are commercial copper and brass cleaners. Again, be sure that any stones in the jewelry can withstand the chemicals in the cleaner or do not use it.

Catsup shines up copper and brass quite nicely. Apply it with a toothbrush or soft cloth, then rinse thoroughly. Avoid getting catsup on the types of stones that should not be used with chemical cleaners.

Worcestershire sauce will also clean and shine copper and brass. Add the worcestershire sauce to a small dish, and place your jewelry in the dish for a few minutes, remove, and rinse thoroughly.

This method should also not be used with gemstones or pearls that cannot be cleaned with chemical cleaners.
Another kitchen cleaner method for copper and brass is a combination of water, lemon or lime juice and salt.

Add a few drops of lemon or lime juice to a container of water, then add a teaspoon of salt and stir gently. Place the jewelry in the solution for a few minutes, then remove and rinse thoroughly. If needed, the dip in the solution can be repeated. Again, this method should not be used with gemstones or pearls that cannot be cleaned with chemical cleaners.

Gemstones

Diamonds have an affinity for grease and literally collect oils in dishwater and from other sources. To reduce greasy build-up on diamond jewelry, dip it in plain alcohol or vodka before soaking.

To clean transparent crystalline gemstones, simply soak them in water with a touch of gentle soap or ammonia. If necessary, use a soft toothbrush to scrub behind the stone. After brushing, simply rinse with lukewarm water and allow them to dry.

Opals require special care. Never use an ultrasonic cleaner, never use ammonia, and avoid heat and strong light, which can dry out the water in opals. Opal rings should not be worn during strenuous work or exercise: they will chip if hit with a sharp blow.

Opaque gemstones like lapis lazuli, turquoise, and malachite, require special care. Never use an ultrasonic cleaner and never use ammonia or any chemical solution.

These gem materials should just be wiped clean gently with a moist cloth. These gemstones can be porous and may absorb chemicals and they may build up inside the stone and discolor it.

Organic Gems
Organic gems like coral and amber should only be gently wiped clean with a soft, non-scratching cloth dipped in lukewarm water, and wiped with a dry soft, non-scratching cloth. Due to their organic nature, these gems are both soft and porous.

Do not put your organic gem jewelry on before hairspray and perfume is applied. Chemicals like these can permanently damage organic gems. Never let organic gems come in contact with strong solutions, soaps, detergents or commercial jewelry cleaning solutions.

All of these can dull the finish and/or give a whitish coating. Keep organic gems away from common kitchen substances such as lard, salad oil, butter and excessive heat of ovens and burners. Avoid exposure to sudden changes of temperature, such as hot tubs, very cold water, and reaching into ovens, followed by a cold sink.

Never put organic gem jewelry in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, which would shatter the gem.
When not wearing, keep organic gem jewelry away from light in a jewelry box or cloth pouch. Organic gem jewelry should not be stored where it can rub against metal or other jewelry, and storage in a soft cloth is best.

After wearing amber, gently wipe clean with a soft, non-scratching cloth dipped in lukewarm water, and wipe with a dry soft, non-scratching cloth.

The amber can be rubbed with clear olive oil, then rubbed with a soft cloth to remove excess oil and restore the polish.
Pearls require special care. Apply cosmetics, hair sprays and perfume before putting on any pearl jewelry.

After each wearing, gently wipe them with a soft, non-scratching cloth to remove body oils, perfume, etc. as these can spot the pearls. Store them separately from other jewelry in a pouch or box to protect them from scratches. Many chemicals can damage pearls, even those considered to be mild.

Even soft brushes used in applying cleansers can do damage to pearls. Soapy water cleans your pearls, but avoid getting the string wet since it will stretch or break.
Do not toss your pearl jewelry carelessly into a purse, bag or jewel box.

A pearl's surface is soft and can be scratched by hard metal edges or by the harder gemstones of other jewelry pieces. Place pearls in a chamois, silk or satin bag or wrap them in tissue when putting them away. Be sure they are clean and dry before storing.
Storing
Proper storage is a must. Ideally, jewelry should be stored in a cool, clean, dry, dark place. Light and heat can affect many pieces of jewelry.

Be sure that your jewelry is clean before storing.
Provide ample space for storage. They should not be in direct contact with other pieces because they can scratch or mar each other.

Use a fabric-lined jewelry case or box with compartments and dividers. If you prefer to use an ordinary box, wrap each piece individually in soft tissue paper, chamois, silk or something similiar. Sterling silver stores well in ziplock plastic bags with or without anti-tarnish tissue.

Press as much air as possible out of the bag to reduce tarnish. Jewelry with pearls or opals will need to be stored in fabric instead of plastic as they need to "breathe." Costume jewelry needs to be stored like jewelry that is made from precious materials if you want it to last.

Dry your jewelry before storage. Moisture can weaken springs and clasps, which increases the likelihood of breakage.

Moisture may also damage certain stones. Do not store jewelry next to a heating vent, window sill, or in the car. Store jewelry away from sunlight. The sun may fade stones.

If you have bead necklaces such as lapis or pearls, store them flat as silk or linen stretches over time. Valuable pieces should visit the jewelers to be professionally restrung every other year or so, depending upon usage.
Silver jewelry is prone to tarnish.

Tarnish is a product of oxidation, caused by the interaction of silver with certain elements such as oxygen or sulfur as well as with certain acids. Tarnishing on silver jewelry, when worn on a regular basis, usually does not occur.

Storage for a prolonged time causes silver jewelry to tarnish. Contact with rubber bands may cause tarnish - the sulfur in rubber is a catalyst for tarnish. Taking a medication that changes the acidity of your skin may cause silver jewelry to tarnish. Touching surfaces such as wood, which contain acids, and other metals can promote tarnish.